Probably Unique in a Liturgical Manuscript, Perhaps
The Earliest Scene of a Commercial Wine Tasting

A VELLUM MANUSCRIPT LEAF FROM A NOTED BREVIARY, WITH A LARGE AND COMPLEX COLORED DRAWING OF WINE TASTING IN A TAVERN.

TEXT OF "SALVE REGINA" FROM THE OFFICE OF COMPLINE.

(14th century). mm (). Double column, each side with a line of text in a neat gothic hand beneath 13 4-line staves of music.

Attractively matted. With five calligraphic initials (one including a human face), two very large red and blue initials, one with decoration the length of the leaf, including repeated half fleurs-de-lys, and WITH A LARGE COLORED DRAWING (measuring approximately 75 x 115 mm.) at the top of the first column of the verso SHOWING FIGURES TASTING WINE IN A TILED GOTHIC INTERIOR, with towers on each side and an entrance on the left. A bit of minor wear, the drawing rather rubbed and faded, a fleur-de-lys on a flag redrawn at a later date, the very tip of the tavern's towers trimmed off at the top, two minor tears in the lower margin without loss to text or decoration, otherwise an extraordinarily unusual leaf in excellent condition.

This is a detailed and delightful drawing of a 14th century tavern scene, probably unique in a liturgical manuscript, and perhaps the oldest surviving representation of a commercial wine tasting. The scene has been drawn and painted in a provincial but graphic style, and the leaf is extraordinary for its engaging and specific narrative drawing of wine tasting and drinking in a Medieval tavern. It was ascribed by its previous owner to Besançon, which is certainly credible. It is evidently from an area of France where taverns served red wine, rather than ale. The text here comprises three chants to the Virgin Mary for use at Compline. It opens with most of the Salve regina ("[…ad te suspiramus] gementes & flentes …"), sung at Compline on Fridays; the verso, below the drawing, is the "In pace in idipsum" for Compline on Saturdays in Lent; the right-hand column is the "Regina caeli," sung at Compline on Sundays from Easter to Pentecost. The drawing of wine drinking was not a marginal addition, but was undoubtedly integral with the manuscript, as the heading for the chant "In pace" is at the foot of the recto, leaving space for the drawing above the opening of the text on the verso. Moreover, the subject of the scene is appropriate, perhaps having been suggested by one or more of three features of the text: (a) "In pace in idipsum …" is Psalm 4:9, which includes (as verses 8-9) "By the fruit of their . . . wine . . . they rest, and in the peace of the same I will sleep . . . "; (b) this is the chant for the final service on Saturday evening, the night for tavern drinking, perhaps especially so on the last Saturday of Lent, since Lenten abstinence ended at dusk that night; and/or (c) there may be a visual play on the syllables "dipsum" in the first line, suggesting "dipsomanie," or drunkenness. The drawing shows at least six people, all in secular dress, with speech balloons in French above their heads. A man in a red and blue piebald tunic stands outside the great door of the tavern and offers a cup of red wine to his companion. He says "or essay a ceste cope. se ly vin valt nule gote / sy ina[n]trares p[ar] ceste g[ra]nt porte, En la ta/verne …" and three words, perhaps "quat lionz dise" (i.e., "Come, try this cup, whether the wine is worth tasting or not, if you come in through this big door into the tavern …", which may be "called the Four Lions"). His friend tosses the contents of his cup on the ground. He says, "p[ar] ta foy simoni[n] ensoig[n]e" ("By your faith, Simonin, it is unpleasant"). Within the tavern, the innkeeper sits beside the barrel of wine, pouring it out into a big jug. He looks across to his assembled customers and says, "voley v[ous] bo[n] vinaige. Baille / argent ou gaige" ("Would you like good drinking? Hand over money or a deposit!") The customers are appalled. A man in blue with a red hat protests, "amis dargent ne me dema[n]dey poin" ("Friends, don't ask for any money from me"), but the innkeeper replies, "Qui e[n]vie y suy p[ar] coma[n]dema[n]t" ("Reluctantly, I am here under orders"). A man in a brown tunic implores, "tavoirnier baille san depoz. p[our] a/mour de s. deders" ("Innkeeper, hand it over without a deposit, for the love of Saint Didier"). A man in red at the far right raises his hand and shouts, "p[ar]dens moy v[ous] v[ous] tourney / l[es] verres / de bon vin" ("Excuse me, you are tipping over glasses of good wine"). Given its amusing complexity and the liturgical context in which it is found, one can hardly overemphasize how singular and unexpected this immensely charming scene is. (ST11943)